SPF; How does it factor in?

Well hello!

I'm back and, to be quite frank, shattered! I just attended my first ever "hot yoga" class and I can feel a habit forming already. The basic idea is that you go through yoga poses in a heated room to maximise the effects and relax muscles. This worked, and I'm definitely the better for it.

However! I was far too blissed out to even consider what would happen when I left the room. As you can imagine, spending over an hour stretching your body in a heated room produces sweat. A lot of it. Despite that fact it's actually a really nice experience. I didn't think that once I stepped out into the cold Irish evening that my soaking t-shirt would go ice cold. As I hopped into my car I made contact with a sodden, chilly piece of clothing. I nearly leapt through the windscreen. That will definitely be put down with notes for the next time.

All this experience with heat and the fact that it's July (combined with a fantastic point that Susan made in her post about your big day) got me thinking about SPF. As I'm a wrecked little bunny I'm going to go through some quick facts about SPF, how it works in make up products, and how to avoid the dreaded flashback! Read on, my lovelies.

• SPF cannot be layered to increase the protection factor. Layering an SPF 15 over an SPF 15 won't give you an SPF 30. Layering an SPF 15 and and SPF 30 won't give you 45, it'll remain at thirty. The highest factor you apply will be the highest protection your skin will have. 
• The little rascal in make up and skincare products that causes flashback is "Titanium dioxide". This is a physical sunscreen that protects the skin by bouncing light back, so it reduces the amount of sunlight that actually has the chance to burn the skin. When photographed this ingredient does the same thing to a camera flash. This reflected light is caught on camera and makes your skin appear much paler. 
• If you know you're going to be photographed it's best to avoid SPF altogether. If your primer or moisturiser contains an SPF you should be fine, as long as it doesn't exceed SPF 15/20. Try not to layer products that contain any sun factor as you'll only build up layers of TD and I don't think I need to tell you what that does! Definitely avoid any foundation products that contain this as they're right on top of the skin and in prime position to bounce back that flash.
• If you're not sure whether or not your base products will give you hassle, check the ingredients. If the aforementioned bad boy is high up on the list then I suggest you run a mile! 
• Lastly, make sure you do wear an SPF every single day. I know I probably sound like some ridiculous medical professional or an Irish Mammy gone rogue but it really is important. Sun damage is one of the leading causes of premature ageing. That alone has me operating on vampire status and trying to avoid direct contact with sunlight as much as possible! You'd think that would be easy in Ireland, but funnily enough... 

That, m'loves, is about all of the essentials I can think of. I know this was short and sweet but when summer rolls around I inevitably get asked by one or two people about the effects of sun protection in make up, so I thought I'd jot this down for any other confused souls out there. It's really simple once you know what to look out for, it's just getting that info that helps. 

As always, any questions or queries are more than welcome! Give us a shout on any of our social media and either myself, Susan or Aisling will get back in touch. 

I'm off to curl up in a ball and probably pass out peacefully. 

Until next time!

J x

Wingin' it: Top tips for applying winged liquid/gel eyeliner.

'Ello!

Monday has rolled around again and I'm back. After a couple of weeks of skin related posts I'm bringing you more make up this time around. Today I'll be going through how I apply gel or liquid liner. I'll be including some tips and tricks along the way, as well as products I would recommend! Let's get down to business...

The first thing to think about is what product you prefer to use. I prefer a gel as I find it's easier to create a smooth line with this type of product. The formula is a little bit thicker and doesn't smudge as easily as a liquid. However, if liquid is your thing then by all means go hell for leather with that!

If you're using a gel like me then nine times out of ten it'll come in a small pot. You can use either an angled or pointed liner brush to apply this. I prefer to use an angled brush (I used Inglot's 31T brush for this particular look) as the flat edge creates a smooth line for you. I also used Inglot's #77 gel liner. It's matte black and waterproof, so it's a must have for keeping your liner looking fresh all day. Once you nail down what you want to use, it's time to start the application.

• Start by following your lower water line and applying a line of product. The water line is the ledge of skin just above your lower lashes. By following the curve that this creates you'll find the most complimentary angle for your eye shape. Everyone's eyes are relatively close in shape so this will help create an even angle for both wings. 
• Create a line towards the eyelid, aiming for your top lashes. You want to create a lifted triangle from your lash line to the end of your liner. This will be the body of your wing. By starting this line just away from the end of the first one you applied, you keep the thin and pointed tip on your wing. 

• Next I take my liner right into my inner corner and lift it up along my lid. I use less product here and keep it nice and thin at the beginning. You can always build this up later if you want it thicker. 
• Next is the part where I take my line across the top lash line! By doing this last I already have the width of my liner determined by the wing and the inner corner. I find that this stops the liner from becoming thicker than I intended. As before, you can always build on top of this later if you prefer. 

• The last thing I do is fill in the space left between the top of my line and my lashes. I take my time here and make sure I have enough liner pushed down into my lashes so that no skin is showing between my lashes and my liner. You can use this step to add any thickness to your liner or tweak the shape. You'll see the overall shape once it's filled in completely, so I'd say wait until this step before you add on to it. 

Another little goodie worth mentioning is Duraline by Inglot. It's a mixing medium that you add to any gel liner to make it more liquid. This product is absolutely genius! Manys the time this has saved a dried liner in my kit and extended the life of it by miles. You literally only need the tiniest bit though, so do be careful. You can also use this to clean up and sharpen your eye liner once you're finished. Take it on a flat concealer brush and run it against the wing of your liner for a clean, crisp finish.

Of course there are many different liner products and brushes that you can use to achieve a gorgeous finish. Have a little shop around and a little play with some bits and pieces. By finding a product that works well you'll have half the job done before you even start.

If you have any questions, you know where to find me. Any feedback would also be really appreciated, let me know what you'd like to see! We have some fab posts planned for the coming weeks so I'm really excited for them to go live. 

Until next time,

J x 

Looking after the skin you're in.

Good morning!

I'm having a balanced breakfast of coffee and Netflix, how you doin'?! I know I'm a day early but tomorrow (June 1st) I'll be doing the VHI Mini Marathon for charity with the lovely ladies I work with so I decided to check in with you guys while I have a free day on my hands.

While we were preparing and making lists of essentials (a hoody just in case, a change of clothes for after, wine, etc...) of course the topic of SPF came up. Being outside in the elements for 10K poses a certain level of risk. Naturally we have all bases covered by now with weatherproof clothing and SPF Factor 50 all in the one bag (I won't mention the dreaded Irish climate), but it's nice to be careful.

All of this got me thinking about taking care of your skin in general. I'll be doing an in depth post on my actual skin care routine and the products that I love soon enough. For now I've compiled a list of tips and tricks that I find make a huge difference to my skin and how it looks. Some might be obvious, but maybe one or two might be new to you and you can hopefully incorporate them from here on out. Read on and see!

Review your skin care routine every 6 months;
Just like the whole winter vs. summer wardrobe routine, your skin care should go through a little editing process every 6 months or so. Whether it just be adding something moisturising in the winter or changing your SPF level in summer, your skin will need to little bit of TLC once the temperature gauge takes a large swing in either direction. The changes don't have to be massive and you certainly don't have to spend a whole lot of money, but doing a little de-cluttering and freshening up will do your skin the world of good.

Don't forget your body;
I'm a demon for doing this. I'll go weeks without so much as a lick of lotion on my knees or elbows and I'll be howling! Wearing skinnies for prolonged periods of time when you should have slapped E45 onto your legs is punishment in itself. Take it from me, I use the exfoliating side of a sponge once a week from the neck down and use a generic body lotion to keep my skin in check. I find this helps prevent blemishes down onto the neck and chest as well. Bonus! Obviously if you have drier skin on your body or a skin condition, please be careful with the scrubbing part.

Diet;
You all know what's coming. I starts with W- and ends in -ater. There's that, and also making sure that you get decent vitamins and good food into you. You'll have more energy and appear more vibrant all around, as well as giving your skin a little boost. At the start of this year I made a major change in my diet and started a fitness routine. My skin has thanked me for it, which is a nice side effect! If that's not your cup of tea, try to include a multivitamin with breakfast as an added boost!

Sleep with your hair away from your face;
Sebum secretes onto the skin and also onto the hair. Therefore sebum is just hitching a ride along your hair shafts in between washes. If you're sleeping with your hair in your face, the oil is more likely to transfer onto your skin. I'm sure you've guessed it, but introducing excess sebum back to your skin after cleaning it isn't beneficial. Get yourself a nice lil' girlo bun on the top of your head before you settle down for fourty winks and you be grand!

Change your bedding frequently; 
This ties into the previous tip. During the night your skin will produce oil and shed dead skin cells. I know it sounds gross but it's harmless and a natural procedure for the skin to go through! However, the longer you sleep on the same bedding the more build up that will be there. I personally flip my pillows each night so that I'm sleeping on each surface as few times as possible. This will help prevent a build up on one surface. I know we're all fabulously clean and hygienic anyway, but it doesn't hurt to get into a routine.

Don't be digging in your pores;
I'm going to sound like someone's mam but leave your face alone! I'm so guilty of this, I know there's nothing more satisfying than getting rid of a nasty white head but you'll do damage. Squeezing too hard can drive the blockage deeper into the skin and damage the pore even further. It will take longer for your blemishes to heal, and there's a chance you'll leave permanent marks. If I can try, you can try!

I know a fair few of these are generic enough but you'd be surprised the differences that can be made! As I mentioned I'll be putting together a proper skin care routine post, including reviews of some products I've been quite liking. Until then I'll be incorporating the above as much as possible!

Here's hoping we're all glowing and gorgeous for this summer,
Until next time,
J x

My Staple Pieces; MAC Studio Fix Powder Foundation.

Ah, home sweet home. A.K.A a Monday where I'm in the comfiest clothes I own planted in front of a laptop with photos syncing to Dropbox so I can gush about cosmetics. You know the drill by now.

The post I'll be doing today is a review I probably should have opened with. I have no idea why it's taken me so long to get around to talking about this. I'm actually a little bit embarrassed because if you've heard me talk about make up before chances are I've mentioned this at least fifteen times.

It is, of course, MAC Studio Fix Powder foundation. I first came across this baby when I saw Chrisppy use it in her videos. I thought it looked good, and I'd heard good things about powder foundations for oily skins. So I took myself off to my nearest MAC counter and picked it up. Here is a breakdown of what the product is, how I use it, and why I love it.

MAC says: "Stuido Fix is a one-step powder and foundation that provides a smooth, all-matte, full-coverage finish. Long-wearing, velvety texture that allows skin to breathe."

I say; A powder foundation with medium, buildable coverage. I disagree that this is full coverage. I would say that you can definitely build it to that level but because it's a powder I wouldn't for fear of it looking cakey. I personally layer a concealer underneath if I feel I need it. I do like the wear time on this, though. Even when my oil comes through later in the day I don't think it looks bad at all. 

On the left side of my face is one layer of 

Studioo Fix Powder. On the right side, clean skin.

How I apply; I start with clean, moisturised skin. It's important to make sure your skin is moisturised properly. This is a powder foundation so any areas with dry texture will immediately show up. I then prime with whatever product tickles my fancy on any given day. I apply Studio Fix Powder with a short, medium density buffing brush similar to a MAC 109. I find that this gives me a more natural looking finish and doesn't apply the product too thickly. A bonus for me is that if I'm feeling lazy and don't remove my facial hair (boy status showing, right?) I can buff a little bit into the edges and not have it really noticeable in that area. If I have any minor colour still coming through I use a small amount of product and add an extra layer in those places only. 

My overall verdict on this product is that it's a must-try at the very least for anyone with oiliness as their major concern. If blemishes are a worry for you this can definitely be used as a setting powder to add extra coverage over a liquid. If you don't worry a whole lot about pigmentation then try this on it's own. I like to use a balancing primer underneath and use this as my coverage. Let me know if you'd like a full base routine and I can get that done!

As always, feel free to get in touch! Let me know what you think of my wonky eyebrows as demonstrated in the above picture, or just ask about products and techniques. You do you, boo boo! 

Until next time,

stay classy San Diego!

J x 

Confessions Of A MakeUp Artist

HAPPY FRIDAY!

Today I am bringing you a post all about the boring but essential tasks that a MUA must do to be on their A game so let's talk a little about hygiene. It sounds very silly to say but hygiene is so important when your a freelance MUA and sometimes can make or break a clients experience. I want to share some of my key points when it comes to hygiene! If you have any you'd like to add sure drop a comment a below and share.

• Brushes. Your tools are your best friend and for every client your brushes MUST be spotless. I have gotten myself into a really good habit of cleaning my brushes straight after each makeover. If you have one makeover after another and cannot give your brushes a good deep clean a good sanitising brush cleanser is essential and will be a life saver!
• Hand. Sanitise sanitise sanitise. You can never clean your hands too much when on a makeup job. I like to keep my hand sanitiser right beside me when working so if you touch your hair or cough etc you can sanitise right then and there. It's also important for the client to see you cleaning your hands before going anywhere near her face, sending the right signals is essentials. 
• Use a spatula and palette. When investing in kit and spending a fortune on different products it is so important to keep them clean and prevent cross contamination. And by that I mean...NEVER using a concealer wand directly on a clients face, always apply it to the back of your sanitised hand or a palette first and then use a brush. And that way if your client has a blemish, cold sore or an eye infection your not going to pass it along to your next client. You can do this similarly with foundation, lipstick, eye liners etc. 
• Disposables. Similar to the point above always use disposables when applying mascara or brow gel to prevent cross contamination. You can pick them up super duper cheap in a beauty supply store. 
• Keeping your kit clean and tidy. A good MUA is nothing without their kit and keeping it clean is a MUST. I like to organise my kit after every use to make sure its clean and tidy for the next client. By this I mean cleaning your actual products, for powder products you can use a tissue or a cleaning spray like "Beauty So Clean"  to remove any dirt, dust or excess product. Using surgical spirits or alcohol to sanitise lipsticks and sharpening pencils. It is also super important to keep track of use by dates on products and throwing away any that may be out of date specifically mascaras. 
• No double dipping.....EVER.

So there is some of my essential tips and I guarantee if you get yourself into a good routine now it will feel second nature in no time, not to mention having a sparkling kit every time you visit a client. 

Hopefully you found something useful in this post and I would love to hear your feedback in the comments below!

Love, 

S x

So you wanna blend in?

Good afternoon, folks!

It's Monday again and I'm firmly anchored in front of the keyboard with an ever faithful cup of coffee and another post for you guys.

This week I'll be going through four easy tips on blending powder products. They could be eye shadows, blushers, bronzers or highlighters, it's up to yourself. With the right techniques you can take make up from any price point and end up with a polished and perfected finish. It just takes a little bit of practice and the right steps. A bucket full of Nescafé Gold Blend is optional, but preferable in early morning scenarios. Anyway...

Tip #1. Set the area with a matte powder.

For the eyes I recommend using a matte shadow in a similar colour to your skin. For cheeks you can simply set the area with a setting powder of your choice. Even if you've primed the eye area, or used a matte foundation, there can still be areas where creams or liquids haven't fully set. These areas can cling to the product you blend over the top and leave them looking patchy and darker in certain areas. You only need a light dusting of matte powder to stop this from happening. Preping the area like this is the first step to getting your blending on the next level.

Tip #2. Use brushes that are different sizes and densities. 

This step is mostly applicable to the eye area as we tend to use more products there, but if you're like me and you have your heart scalded trying to soften the edge of a bronzer or blush then this might be up your alley! Using a larger and softer brush to apply your product first will give you a lighter finish and a cleaner edge. You can then use a smaller and denser brush to concentrate the colour where you want it most. 

Be careful not to put too much product on your brush to begin with. Start with a small amount of product and build up for a more polished finish. Using different brushes ties in perfectly with our next tip, which is...

Tip #3. Use a lighter "transition" colour . 

A transition colour is a tone that sits between the lightest and darkest shade you want to use. This step is the crucial step for making your blending look out of this world. When using eye shadow you can take two colours in the same family and buff the lighter colour onto the eye first. Follow up with your darker colour and you'll see it instantly diffuse and soften into the transition shade. On the skin, the most common way to do this is to use a bronzer or blush and follow up with a cooler, deeper colour to contour. 

Using a larger brush to apply your transition shade will blend the colour over a larger area. You can then use your smaller brush to go in and concentrate your darker colour in a specific area to add depth. 

Tip #4. Blend your textures!

When we talk about the texture of a product, we mean how it looks when it's on the skin (matte, dewy, frosted, satin sheen, etc.) Some eye shadows and blushes have a sheen to them. If you ever try them you'll probably have a really easy time blending them out. Products with a little shimmer in them tend to be easier to soften, so why not use this to your advantage? This step is optional and might not be everyone's cup of tea. If you want to take your make up one step further for an event then adding an element of sparkle will do the job rightly!

For this I'd recommend using your matte products first and following with anything that contains shine for a really perfected finish. Using a matte contour colour, a blush with a soft sheen and an illuminating powder highlighter gives the cheek such a gorgeous finish. On the eyes, layering a colour with some shimmer over the lid will soften the transition from a matte crease colour to a highlighted lid and tear duct area. 

While we're here I'd suggest avoiding products with any shine to contour the face or eye socket. Frosted colours reflect light and this goes against the purpose of contouring, but sure we'll cover that at some point in the future!

So my lovelies, those are my four essential techniques that I use every day, on every face, every time. You don't have to spend an unholy amount of time and money to get a decent finish, just practice and invest in some good tools and staple products that you can use day in, day out. The rest, mes amis, is up to you.

As always (I can hear one or two of you yawning because you know what's coming) feel free to give us a shout here, on Instagram or on our YouTube channel with any questions or queries that you have. 

Until next time,

J x